Showing posts with label backyard farming. Show all posts
Showing posts with label backyard farming. Show all posts

RABBIT KEEPING: What you need to know to get started!



Ever thought of keeping rabbits?

Now that summer is here, you may be thinking of trying some homesteading projects! When it comes to keeping small livestock, for most of us, chickens have been the thing. But did you know rabbits can be a great choice for the small homestead? 

After all, a small hutch in your backyard’s corner won’t disturb anyone and rabbits will also, in a more selective way, participate in waste reduction. 


Whether you'll be keeping them for meat or as pets, rabbits are an enjoyable choice for the small homestead. They're extremely loving and easy-to-keep little creatures. Best of all, it doesn’t matter if you have no prerequisite knowledge on rabbit keeping. Nearly anyone can do it!

In this article, I’ll cover the main aspects of rabbit keeping, from breeds, to housing and care so that your rabbit keeping experience will be as successful and enjoyable as possible.

Rabbit Breeds


First, let's talk about breeds...

There are two main rabbit breed classifications. Either by size (Giant rabbits, standard rabbits and dwarf rabbits) or by raising purpose (pet, meat and ornamental).

Breed standards are detailed descriptions of physical characteristics (weight, color, body structure, and fur type) a particular breed has to satisfy. These standards give clear benchmarks to breeders in order to help them focus on specific characteristics in their selection works. 

Who sets these standards? In the US, The ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) is the body in charge of issuing rabbit breed standards. 

Depending on your actual need, you may want to choose different variations of rabbits. For example, if your goal is to get abundant and good quality meat, you'll want to go for New Zealand whites, Californians or silver foxes.  

If you have enough space in your backyard, giant rabbit breeds like giant chinchillas and giant Flemish are two excellent options. 

Otherwise, dwarf rabbits like the Lionhead bunny, Holland lop and the polish rabbit make wonderful indoor pets.

Before making the purchase, make sure you clearly express your expectations to your breeders so he can provide you with the best suited rabbit breed for your needs.

Habitat


What about housing your rabbits?

An adequate home for your bunny is a must. For rabbits kept as indoor pets, a cage made of plastic and wire mesh does the job. On the other hand, outdoor hutches are generally made of wood, metal wires and plastic for flooring.

If kept outdoors, the hutch should be placed where it will stay dry and be protected from rain and weather. It's a good idea to position the hutch where the morning light can shine in, but where there will be some afternoon shade to avoid overheating.

Your rabbit's hutch should allow for approximately 2 ft X 3 ft of floor space per adult rabbit. For a great guide on how much space your rabbit needs, check out this Rabbit Hutch and Cage Size Guide.


Whatever option you choose, your rabbit’s home should be as spacious as possible. Shelter dimensions should allow for maximum freedom as rabbits love to jump around all the time. 

Most rabbits enclosures have a wire mesh floor with a tray underneath to catch droppings, or if outdoors, the droppings may simply fall to the ground. But sometimes, a litter box is used. One particular caution: be sure to carefully choose an adequate litter box. This is really important. When a bunny gets bored, he may turn his attention to the box at the back of the cage, and start nibbling and swallowing it, which may seriously affect its sensitive digestive system. Rabbit anorexia is generally the result of such bad materials’ being ingested. Make sure that the litter is always dust-free and clean. For that, fresh, dry and regularly replaced hay is the best option.

Activity Needs


Rabbits are intelligent and vivid creatures. They need to be constantly simulated, either mentally or physically. Supply them with balls to keep them busy. You might be surprised. Some rabbits like to roll and chase balls and it can be very entertaining to watch! You can also build an obstacle course for your rabbit out of cardboard boxes, tubes, newspapers, etc. 


It's recommended that you allow your rabbits four hours of free run play time per day. Allow them to have time out of their hutch. This can be done with supervision, or a small movable pen can be set up in the yard or garden. Rabbits also like to play games! For some game ideas, check out this article, Exercise and Playtime for Rabbits.

Dietary Needs


Your rabbit's diet is very important. Dietary errors are a major cause of many medical problems for rabbits. Establishing a nutritionally correct diet is crucial and actually very simple. By observing the eating habits of the wild rabbit, we can easily understand how to feed his domestic cousin. 

A wild rabbit only feeds on herbs, grass, roots, and even barks during lean periods. All of these foods have low nutritional content but are perfectly adapted to rabbits’ specific digestive system. They are rich in fiber (which is needed for for intestinal health) and require extended chewing, which is important to a rabbit's teeth.

For rabbit's teeth to stay in good health, rabbits need to gnaw on bulk foods, like fresh hay for many hours per day. A Rabbit's teeth grow continuously and chewing hay and herbs helps keep their teeth filed down so they don't get too large. 

The perfect diet for your bunny is composed of hay, herbs, fresh vegetables and some pellet food. Hay is the most important part of your rabbit's diet. Make hay available in unlimited quantity to your rabbit. Not only does chewing hay help keep a rabbit's teeth healthy, it also provides the majority of nutrients needed by your rabbit for good health. The best hay is going to be green in color and aromatic. Grass hay is better than alfalfa or clover hays. It's best to buy your hay at a local feed store, over what you can buy in a pet store, because the feed store hay will be most fresh and offer the most nutrients to your bunny. 

Your rabbits should also have access to pellets, but in limited amounts, because too much can cause obesity. Offer 1/8 to 1/4 cup pellets per five pounds of body weight. Feed half in the morning and half in the evening. Only feed your rabbits pellets that are packaged in sealed bags. Pellets that have been exposed to air and moisture could be less nutrient dense and run the risk of becoming contaminated with mold.

Be sure to offer fresh vegetables to your rabbits. The water content in celery and carrots is important to keeping bunnies guts hydrated, and these also give your rabbits something to chew on.

Finally, avoid all processed food such as crackers, bread and pasta, and of course all processed snacks. Your bunny doesn't need those! If you want to offer an occasional treat, slip your rabbit some fresh fruit like berries or apple.

Watering


Rabbits need to have constant access to water. The best option for watering your rabbits is a specific water bottle mounted to the wall of the cage or hutch. These bottles are generally equipped with sippy spouts on them. These are better than the standard bowl, because a bowl can become soiled with bedding and litter (which is just gross).

Breeding and mating


Seeing new adorable bunnies come to life and grow is a fantastic experience! However, before engaging in the breeding process, be sure you are ready to accommodate more guests. Providing for more food, cages and most importantly more attention and care, is not easy and requires planning.

Assuming you're ready for company, here's what you need to know about breeding. Rabbits attain sexual maturity at different ages depending on their size. That is, dwarf breeds are able to mate sooner than bigger breeds. 

Rabbits chosen for mating should be healthy, in excellent physical condition and free of any kind of genetic defects they could possibly pass on to their offspring. 

Another important characteristic that rabbit keepers should not neglect when thinking of breeding is the rabbit’s character and temperment. Character generally includes a genetic component, so the breeding rabbit should be docile and show a good temperament.


When a female is ready for mating, she is generally nervous and disturbed. She also will rub her chin against different objects. Her vulva turns red. These behaviors do not manifest simultaneously however, so you can decide to perform mating whenever you feel it is appropriate.

Place the female in the male’s cage as she is more possessive toward her own cage than he is. If you do the opposite, she may show clear signs of aggression. If mating is done in a neutral place, the male may get too busy exploring it and neglect the female's presence. After the intercourse, the male falls on one side and emits a little sound, and then it's over.

It's very important to record the mating date to be able to precisely calculate the expected date of parturition. This will allow you to quickly intervene in the case of any problems at the end of the pregnancy period.

On average, gestation lasts 30 days. A few days before parturition, make sure to put an easy opening, nesting box (for an average sized doe, a 15x10x10 inch box suits perfectly) with a raised lip. This will allow the doe to safely get in and out.

Health care precautions


When it comes to health issues, the majority of problems can be easily avoided if you take good care of your bunny. Some simple precautions will help you keep your pet in excellent heath.

As we said earlier, an appropriate diet can prevent the most common health problems such as constipation, enteritis, dental issues, and becoming overweight. Being overweight is the source of numerous problems. To stay healthy, rabbits need to be active. So do not let him just lay inside his cage for long hours per day. (See the section above for ideas on how to give your rabbit activity each day). If you notice that your rabbit puts on more and more weight, try to limit from his diet the most calorific foods, such as pellets.

In order to prevent a dangerous foot infection known as pododermatitis, the cage must be kept extremely clean, especially at the bottom which should be soft and dry. A filthy bottom predisposes the animal to pododermatitis.

Even if the bunny lives indoors, he should be regularly vaccinated against Myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic diseases (VHD). Vaccination is also a good opportunity to perform periodic complete medical checks.


If your bunny stops eating, or if he is sluggish, or if he is inactive or suffers from diarrhea, he is obviously ill. However, symptoms are not always that clear. Sometimes, they are difficult to notice and may need attentive observation. If you can notice them early, your veterinary can intervene quicker and chances of healing will be higher.

Conclusion


Pin this, please :-)


Whether you keep rabbits as pets or for meat, rabbits on the homestead can be a great first step in learning to keep small livestock. 


Let's chat: Why do you like to keep rabbits? I'd love to hear form you in the comments below!

About this guest author: Marvin Delany lives in Pennsylvania where animals are his lifelong passion. He's a veterinary medicine student and an author at FarmingStyle.


Joy--Fearless Farm Girl,


"Farm girl: it's a verb, because it's what you do."




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Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. That means if you click through and make a purchase, we receive a small percentage in commissions from the company you buy from. We value you as a reader and want you to know that the products we link to are only products we use ourselves or that we feel will add value to your life. Thank you for supporting Farm Girl Inspirations! To read our full disclosure statement click here.

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How to train a rooster to be nice (or at least to stop attacking you)!

How to keep chickens cool in summer's heat.

Beginning chicken keeping: Mistakes to avoid, and how we survived our first year! (Funny story with helpful advice).

Homemade BEEF JERKY the easy way!

DIY homemade TOOTHPASTE so good, you can brush aside the store-bought stuff and never miss it!

Best DIY ROLL-ON DEODORANT (Works like crazy)!

Help for an EGG-BOUND HEN: Know the symptoms, causes, and prevention of this life-threatening condition.


Recognizing an egg-bound hen... 

It was the end of a 95 degree day (one of many in a two-week hot streak). The sun was setting, and soon it would be time to put the girls to bed. 

We called our chickens in from free-ranging. They all came running. All but Cocoa. That's odd, I thought. Cocoa is usually the first one to come charging in when I call, because she knows it's treat time (usually leafy greens). Where was she? 

We went in search of Cocoa. We found her up the hill in our yard, hiding near the base of a tree. Her tail feathers weren't up in their normal perky position. They hung down close to the ground. She seemed sleepy. Her back end made a pulsing movement, something hens do when they are ready to lay an egg. But Cocoa's egg should have come much earlier in the day! Something was wrong. Cocoa was showing signs of being egg-bound, a dangerous and possibly fatal condition for a hen if she didn't get help.


Signs and symptoms of an egg-bound hen:
  • Repeated visits to the nesting box, but no egg 
  • Sleepy, lethargic or droopy behavior
  • Feathers fluffed out around the bird's body and hen sits low to the ground
  • A pulsing vent area or a straining, pumping movement
  • A firm egg-shaped mass can be felt when you gently feel the hen's abdomen
Possible causes of egg-binding:
  • Dehydration
  • Over-heating
  • Lack of activity
  • Lack of calcium in the diet, or some other nutritional deficiency 
  • Stress
  • Too little access to nesting areas
  • An over-large or misshapen egg
  • The hen's pelvis to small
  • The bird is young and not fully mature
  • Heredity 
  • An overweight hen
The Dangers of a hen being egg-bound:

  • Infection
  • The egg could break inside the hen, leading to the possibility of injury when the broken shell passes
  • Internal bleeding
  • Damage to the oviduct
  • Death
  • A prolapsed uterus 

In our situation, it was the summer heat that contributed to Cocoa becoming egg-bound. When it's hot, chickens are more stressed. They tend to move around less, and they may become dehydrated. Even if they have plenty of water, if that water becomes too warm, a bird may avoid drinking it. Hens need water to lubricate the oviduct where the egg is formed. 

(Geez! It takes a lot of work to keep chickens for those revered farm-fresh eggs! These days, with free-range eggs becoming more available, I'd understand if you thought I was crazy for all this fuss over one egg and one hen. But I happen to be a little chicken crazy. And maybe you are too, since you're reading this article). 

Once we recognized Cocoa's problem, we took fast action...


What to to if your hen is egg-bound...


A vet is your best bet when dealing with an egg-bound hen, but if you don't have access to a vet, there are some home remedies you can try. 

What you will need:

Dish pan (or other reservoir big enough to fit your hen)
Epsom salt
Vegetable oil (any kind)
Calcium carbonate 
Medicine dropper
Medical exam gloves
Plain yogurt (or applesauce or baby food)
Storage bin (or some other box or kennel)
Towel



What to do:

If you believe your hen is egg-bound, based on the symptoms listed above, do the following:

1. Calcium. Egg binding may be due to a lack of calcium. A hen's muscles need calcium to contract properly and get the egg out. I keep powdered calcium carbonate on hand. I used this with Cocoa. This can be mixed with yogurt, applesauce, or baby food and placed in a medicine dropper and fed down the throat of your hen. Mix 2 teaspoons powdered calcium carbonate with 2 tablespoons yogurt, or enough to make it runny enough to get down the bird's throat. (Yogurt is my first choice because it provides even more calcium.) Try to get as much of the yogurt concoction as you can down the bird's throat. You can also try Tums, but you will need to get the hen to eat them, which may be difficult if she has lost interest in eating. You can try breaking them into pieces and hiding them in something like grapes. Or you can crush the Tums and use the powder as described above. Give your egg-bound hen calcium. It's quickly absorbed and can help. 

2. Warm epsom salt bath. Fill a basin with a few inches of warm water (not hot), enough to come up the birds chest as she sits in it. The kitchen sink can work, but you may prefer to keep the mess outside. If it is warm enough outside, this is fine. If it is cold, treat the bird indoors. Add a 1/4 cup of epsom salt to the water and let it dissolve. Gently submerge the hen's belly and back end in the water. You can place one hand underneath her belly and one hand on top of her back. Have someone else hold her wings if she tries to flap. Gently massage her belly. With her head away from you, pull your hand along her belly toward her vent. She will most likely enjoy this bath and find it relaxing. Epsom salt can help her relax the same way it helps you and me, which is what she needs. Allow her to remain in the bath for about 15 minutes.

3. Lubricate the vent. Put on a pair medical exam gloves. Really. You're gonna want them. Using the vegetable oil (like olive oil or some other oil), rub some oil around the hen's vent. You can gently poke your oiled finger into the vent opening to lube it up inside a bit, too. (I know, those farm-fresh eggs are priceless aren't they)? This step is important. It will help the egg slip out easier. 

4. A quiet place to wait. When the bath is over, dry your hen off with the towel as best you can and place her in a quiet spot. (Some say to use a hair dryer to dry her off. Cocoa would have freaked out if I'd done this. I say, if you want to use a hair dryer, do so only if it doesn't cause more stress to the hen). We used an empty dog kennel with pine shavings on the floor as a warm, quiet place to put Cocoa. A cardboard box, laundry basket turned upside down or an empty storage bin lined with hay or pine chips could also work. Let the hen stay there for about 30 minutes. If the egg is not produced, repeat the bath, then leave her again in the box. Repeat the bath after each 30 minute rest in the box until the egg is produced. 

What if the egg doesn't pass? Sometimes, the stubborn egg will need to be collapsed inside the bird and the shell passed. I do not feel qualified to tell you how to do this, but here is a link to a short article with some tips about doing this. There are some risks involved in collapsing an egg internally. (This might be a good time to change your mind about getting a vet involved). Collapsing the egg is a last resort because it has the potential to cause injury. But if your hen has not passed the egg within 24-48 hours, this in itself becomes life threatening, so collapsing the egg may be your only choice. 


Ways to prevent egg-binding...

Calcium: As already stated, calcium is important in the business of egg-laying. A hen's muscles need calcium in order to contract properly and move the egg along. Normally, a good quality layer feed will contain enough calcium for a hen's diet. But there may be reasons she is still deficient. Perhaps she isn't getting her share of feed, or it is hot and she isn't eating as much. Also, it's a popular practice to give hen's raw apple cider vinegar in their water for the pro-biotics. But in summertime, when it is hot, this can actually interfere with calcium absorption. So avoiding ACV when it's hot is recommended. Another food to avoid is spinach. Raw spinach interferes with calcium absorption no matter what time of year. People think spinach is a good treat for hens, but dark leafy lettuce is better. To insure plenty of calcium, you can sprinkle crushed oyster shells on the ground for your hens to pick up when they need it. You can also do this crushed egg shells. 

Hydration: Getting enough water is vital to the egg laying process. Without enough water, the oviduct may become dry and less lubricated. Summertime is a threat because of the risk of dehydration. One way to ensure your hens drink enough water, is to keep it cool. You can check out some ideas for keeping chickens (and their water) cool in one of my articles here. Placing ice in your chickens water can go along way, but it melts fast and has to be replaced often. Some people like to use insulted drink coolers with a chicken nipple arrangement, so birds can get a fresh, clean drink every time. 

Access to enough nesting areas: Hens can experience egg restriction if they have to wait a long time to get to the nesting box, or if they are penned in an area that doesn't have access to the place they usually lay their eggs. Be sure you provide enough nesting boxes, 1 for every 2-3 birds. If you let your birds free-range in a fenced area, be sure they have access to their usual nesting place, or that they are really comfortable using a different box in a different location.

Enough exercise: This one isn't hard for birds who get let out into the yard. However, if birds are held inside an enclosed run all day, and never let out, they can become sedentary and overweight. Make sure they have at least the minimum space required: 8-10 square feet per bird. (Birds that are let out during the day to free-range need only 4 square feet of run space, because they spend less time in the run). For more on this and other backyard chicken questions, check out this article by CountrySide Daily. Also, if it is hot, (you'll know your birds are hot, if they walk around with their beaks open and keep hanging out in the shade) hens will slow down and sit more to stay cool. To help with this, if they are usually contained, and if you can, try letting them out into a yard during the cooler parts of the day, even if it is only for 2 or 3 hours. Your birds will appreciate it, and their eggs will be healthier for you to eat, too. 

Quality layer feed: A good layer feed will be formulated to provide the right nutrients and calcium to laying hens. Be sure your birds only have access to their layer feed for the first half of the day, to ensure they eat enough of the feed. They can enjoy healthy treats sparingly later in the day, if you want, like leafy lettuce, meal worms, "scratch" and seeds. But, avoid feeding your hens too many treats that may interfere with their nutritional balance, or add to a weight problem. 

Let's chat: Have you ever had to help an egg-bound hen? I'd love to hear your story in the comments below.

Joy--Fearless Farm Girl,

"Farm girl: it's a verb, because it's what you do."



SUBSCRIBE BY EMAIL
Like what you're reading? Stay inspired to achieve a more simple, self-reliant way of life. Sign up to receive our newsletter and each new post directly in your inbox! CLICK HERE to subscribe!




Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. That means if you click through and make a purchase, we receive a small percentage in commissions from the company you buy from. We value you as a reader and want you to know that the products we link to are only products we use ourselves or that we feel will add value to your life. Thank you for supporting Farm Girl Inspirations! To read our full disclosure statement click here.


Other related posts: